sailboat

Through the Outside Passage and Across the Hecate Strait

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After overnighting at the Shearwater Marina to get our laundry done, we did a bit of final shopping in Bella Bella, as well as dealing with a few items we needed internet connectivity for, we set back off-grid, heading north-west to an overnight anchorage that would give us a good starting point the next morning.

Perrin Anchorage (52°16’38″N 128°22’38″W), between Ivory and Watch Islands, and unnamed on Google Maps, doesn’t look like much from the satellite image, but as you can see from the charts, has reasonable protection in settled weather with a bunch of reefs that dry at low tide. I don’t think it would be comfortable in a southerly blow, but suited our purposes in the weather we had quite nicely.

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Spider Anchorage and north to Bella Bella

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On Sunday the 22nd we departed Pruth Bay to begin heading north towards Bella Bella, but instead of going directly there, we decided to go somewhere a bit more remote and dropped anchor inside Spider Anchorage, a large series of small coves southeast of Spider Island.

With pleasant weather and a beautiful location, we opted to stay anchored there for another three nights baking, cooking, fishing (unsuccessfully), and checking out the nearby beach where the few other boats that stopped near us (all sailboats we’d also seen in Pruth Bay) took their dogs to shore.

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Port McNeill, provisioning, and getting ready to head north

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From Alert Bay we had a very nice downwind sail 6nm over to Port McNeill, where we needed to top off our provisions, our diesel, and propane. We ended up staying at the North Island Marina, which is more of a fuel dock with a marina attached to it than the other way around: in the afternoons they stretch the super-long diesel fill hoses down the docks to fuel up docked boats so they don’t need to go over to the actual fuel dock, and they filled our propane tanks for us as well. Further south than this (including Campbell River!) I couldn’t find any place to get propane refilled, only exchanged, and since we’ve got 10lb tanks rather than the more standard 20lb tanks, exchanges won’t work for us. I’d banked on refills being the more common thing as we got further north into more remote areas, and that assumption turned out to be correct.

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Early June in Desolation Sound

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Heading back towards Desolation Sound, we stayed one night in Cortes Bay before heading onto Refuge Cove on Friday morning, the second-to-last day of May. In Refuge Cove, since there was nobody else anchored, we were able to take the one spot way in the back of the bay near the creek leading to Refuge Lagoon.

Refuge Cove is really, really pretty, but there isn’t a lot of anchoring room; much of the larger bay is pretty deep, and the area near the General Store (and the associated docks) has mooring balls taking up room not taken up by the docks, which also appear to have had a recent expansion added. As we were there at the end of May, the General Store hadn’t even started their high-season hours yet and were open for only a few hours Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, but we stopped in and I picked up a few lures for jigging bottom fish, since the area seemed like a good place to fish from the dinghy. On the short trip from Cortes Bay to Refuge Cove we’d attempted to troll for salmon with no success, but we’ll keep trying on days where we aren’t in a hurry and can move at the nice slow 2.5-3.5 knot speed we’d need to troll properly with the flasher and spoon rig.

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Heading North from Nanaimo: Comox and Desolation Sound

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On Monday the 19th, we headed north from Nanaimo, intending to be in Campbell River on Tuesday, stopping for the night in Ford Cove on Hornby Island. This was easily our most uncomfortable passage yet–we were able to sail most of the way, with 15-20 knots of wind on our starboard quarter, but while we were able to sail, the motion of the waves in the Strait of Georgia hitting us in the same starboard quarter made for a very uncomfortable ride. I got mildly nauseous, and my partner got a bit worse than that, feeling fairly seasick for the first two hours.

Thankfully, Ford Cove gave us good protection from the wind and waves overnight and we slept well, and the next day was as calm as could be, a welcome relief from the previous day. However, we’d been having issues with the furling main getting stuck trying to unfurl, so while we motored north (thinking we’d get to Campbell River), I made some calls until I found a rigger that could help us out; the rigger (Blanchard Rigging) was based out of Comox and said they could come see us that afternoon if we just went directly to the Comox Valley Harbour Authority docks, so we did.

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