The winds on Wednesday, August 6th, looked great to sail offshore and around the Brooks Peninsula, a passage reputed to be somewhat rough. With for the beautiful weather we were having it wasn’t bad, but it was the biggest waves we’d ever been in. It’s really hard to estimate wave height but I have to figure that we were in 3-4 meter seas a good portion of the time; often at the bottom of the trough of the wave you’d lose sight of the horizon behind the top of the next wave. My partner got mildly seasick, but I had an amazing time sailing downwind in 15-20 knots for a few hours, until the wind dropped off and we were forced to motorsail to our next anchorage in the Bunsby Group. I chose what one of our cruising guides calls “Green Head Cove” and we dropped anchor at 50°05.6849′ N, 127°33.2296′ W.
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Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound, and Sea Otters
Winter Harbour is not a town in any sense, but it might well be considered a village during the summer months. What used to be a fishing and whaling station is now a series of docks and fishing resorts. RVs pack the place, with some having permanent (or perhaps semi-permanent) structures built around the RVs, all people who are there at least half the year, I was told. There were few other sailboats around while we were there, with two others at the government wharf, while we stayed at the Outpost at Winter Harbour’s dock, which in the evenings was mostly full, and during the day mostly empty. All small (trailerable, for the most part) fishing boats with big outboard engines. Some charters, but most of them owned by people staying in the RVs or the various cabins in the area, and all coming back each day with ice chests full of huge fish: salmon, lingcod, halibut, and various rockfish. Fish much bigger than we are even set up to catch, and it made me realize I need to spend some money on larger rods & reels, especially if we start going after pelagic fish offshore eventually. Maybe in Tofino.
We stayed for two nights at the dock, resting up from the overnight sail, getting what few replacement groceries the General Store offered, and figuring out our next moves and the upcoming weather. Winter Harbour has some very easy sea otter viewing, with rafts of 50+ gathering in the evenings, and some solo otters even coming near the docks. Bald eagles, crows, turkey vultures, and gulls feast on the scraps of fish tossed in the water from the filleting stations on the docks, gathering on the shore at low tide and bickering over the scraps that have washed up. Shorebirds and Belted Kingfishers fly around, calling to each other.
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Offshore from Haida Gwaii to Vancouver Island
On Thursday morning we motored back over to Keeweenah Bay, with a potential weather window for sailing down to Vancouver Island having shown up for the next day. Again, we saw more humpbacks nearly the whole time, from out front of Rose Harbour all the way to the outside of Keeweenah Bay!
In preparing for our upcoming passage, we baked and cooked, ensuring we’d have easy-to-heat meals and snacks for the whole day-and-a-half it was expected to take.


Gwaii Haanas part 6: Keeweenah Bay, a Tsunami Warning, and Rose Harbour Kitchen
Monday the 28th ended up being very rainy the entire day. We stayed inside, napped, read books in the cockpit with the rain pattering on the canvas, and made good food, including another loaf of bread and some dessert/breakfast focaccia (really like a cinnamon roll focaccia, sorry-not-sorry Italy). Being able to stay cozy and comfortable in such conditions really makes Kestrel a perfect boat for this region.



Gwaii Haanas part 5: SG̱ang Gwaay, more humpback whales, and Louscoone Inlet
With the weather looking promising for the afternoon, in the late morning of Saturday the 26th we pulled anchor to head past Rose Harbour to SG̱ang Gwaay. We saw more humpback whales on the way, luckily none quite as close as the previous day. The areas to the east of and west of the Houston Stewart Channel, the body of water separating the southern end of Moresby Island and Kunghit Island, were full of humpbacks feeding each day we passed through. I’d only ever seen a few humpback whales in the wild (some up in Alaska, the one near Hakai Institute) and suddenly we’re seeing at least five to seven individuals per day!


