Ucluelet, the Broken Group, and on to Sooke

On the 20th, we continued on to the nearby town of Ucluelet to check it out and go to a fishing supply store so I could get some advice and supplies. We stayed in a marina here, easier to re-provision, and the price was very reasonable (especially compared to the marinas in Tofino). I ended up getting some great advice from a guy who’d been fishing down in Baja California before and set me up with a good rod and a very nice reel. Heading out from Ucluelet on the 22nd past the Broken Group to the anchorage for Lucky Creek I ended up pulling in a Coho salmon with the new gear.

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A rough rounding of the Hesquiat Peninsula and into Tofino

Getting around the Hesquiat Peninsula was rough. Very, very rough. For one, the forecasted 11-13 knots of wind was actually more like 20-25 knots, directly on the bow. This is complicated by the area around the Peninsula and for several miles offshore being less than 200ft deep, making for steep, brief periods of waves.

Things didn’t pick up until we were a few miles offshore and over halfway down the peninsula; at that point, turning back would have been every bit as bad, if not worse, for nearly as long as just continuing through, so we did. It was not comfortable, and as the bow punched through waves repeatedly, my partner asked the question: “what’s that banging sound?” and I asked “where’s the anchor?”

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Brooks Peninsula, Bunsby Group, and Tahsis

The winds on Wednesday, August 6th, looked great to sail offshore and around the Brooks Peninsula, a passage reputed to be somewhat rough. With for the beautiful weather we were having it wasn’t bad, but it was the biggest waves we’d ever been in. It’s really hard to estimate wave height but I have to figure that we were in 3-4 meter seas a good portion of the time; often at the bottom of the trough of the wave you’d lose sight of the horizon behind the top of the next wave. My partner got mildly seasick, but I had an amazing time sailing downwind in 15-20 knots for a few hours, until the wind dropped off and we were forced to motorsail to our next anchorage in the Bunsby Group. I chose what one of our cruising guides calls “Green Head Cove” and we dropped anchor at 50°05.6849′ N, 127°33.2296′ W.

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Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound, and Sea Otters

Winter Harbour is not a town in any sense, but it might well be considered a village during the summer months. What used to be a fishing and whaling station is now a series of docks and fishing resorts. RVs pack the place, with some having permanent (or perhaps semi-permanent) structures built around the RVs, all people who are there at least half the year, I was told. There were few other sailboats around while we were there, with two others at the government wharf, while we stayed at the Outpost at Winter Harbour’s dock, which in the evenings was mostly full, and during the day mostly empty. All small (trailerable, for the most part) fishing boats with big outboard engines. Some charters, but most of them owned by people staying in the RVs or the various cabins in the area, and all coming back each day with ice chests full of huge fish: salmon, lingcod, halibut, and various rockfish. Fish much bigger than we are even set up to catch, and it made me realize I need to spend some money on larger rods & reels, especially if we start going after pelagic fish offshore eventually. Maybe in Tofino.

We stayed for two nights at the dock, resting up from the overnight sail, getting what few replacement groceries the General Store offered, and figuring out our next moves and the upcoming weather. Winter Harbour has some very easy sea otter viewing, with rafts of 50+ gathering in the evenings, and some solo otters even coming near the docks. Bald eagles, crows, turkey vultures, and gulls feast on the scraps of fish tossed in the water from the filleting stations on the docks, gathering on the shore at low tide and bickering over the scraps that have washed up. Shorebirds and Belted Kingfishers fly around, calling to each other.

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Offshore from Haida Gwaii to Vancouver Island

On Thursday morning we motored back over to Keeweenah Bay, with a potential weather window for sailing down to Vancouver Island having shown up for the next day. Again, we saw more humpbacks nearly the whole time, from out front of Rose Harbour all the way to the outside of Keeweenah Bay!

In preparing for our upcoming passage, we baked and cooked, ensuring we’d have easy-to-heat meals and snacks for the whole day-and-a-half it was expected to take.

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