Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound, and Sea Otters

Winter Harbour is not a town in any sense, but it might well be considered a village during the summer months. What used to be a fishing and whaling station is now a series of docks and fishing resorts. RVs pack the place, with some having permanent (or perhaps semi-permanent) structures built around the RVs, all people who are there at least half the year, I was told. There were few other sailboats around while we were there, with two others at the government wharf, while we stayed at the Outpost at Winter Harbour’s dock, which in the evenings was mostly full, and during the day mostly empty. All small (trailerable, for the most part) fishing boats with big outboard engines. Some charters, but most of them owned by people staying in the RVs or the various cabins in the area, and all coming back each day with ice chests full of huge fish: salmon, lingcod, halibut, and various rockfish. Fish much bigger than we are even set up to catch, and it made me realize I need to spend some money on larger rods & reels, especially if we start going after pelagic fish offshore eventually. Maybe in Tofino.

We stayed for two nights at the dock, resting up from the overnight sail, getting what few replacement groceries the General Store offered, and figuring out our next moves and the upcoming weather. Winter Harbour has some very easy sea otter viewing, with rafts of 50+ gathering in the evenings, and some solo otters even coming near the docks. Bald eagles, crows, turkey vultures, and gulls feast on the scraps of fish tossed in the water from the filleting stations on the docks, gathering on the shore at low tide and bickering over the scraps that have washed up. Shorebirds and Belted Kingfishers fly around, calling to each other.

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Gwaii Haanas part 5: SG̱ang Gwaay, more humpback whales, and Louscoone Inlet

With the weather looking promising for the afternoon, in the late morning of Saturday the 26th we pulled anchor to head past Rose Harbour to SG̱ang Gwaay. We saw more humpback whales on the way, luckily none quite as close as the previous day. The areas to the east of and west of the Houston Stewart Channel, the body of water separating the southern end of Moresby Island and Kunghit Island, were full of humpbacks feeding each day we passed through. I’d only ever seen a few humpback whales in the wild (some up in Alaska, the one near Hakai Institute) and suddenly we’re seeing at least five to seven individuals per day!

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Gwaii Haanas part 4: Collision Bay, Rose Harbour, and Heater Harbour

Late Monday morning (July 21st) had us motoring in no wind and calm seas south and then east 12 nautical miles to Collision Bay. With s/v Senja heading to the nearby Ikeda Cove, we thought we’d probably see them again in Rose Harbour later in the week if not sooner. Inside Collision Bay we anchored tucked up in the north end of the inner bay behind the unnamed tree-covered islet that is connected to the rest of the island during low tide (52° 17.0074′ N, 131° 09.0173′ W).

Collision Bay gave us another chance to just sit in one place for several days, and we spent our time mostly cooking, baking, and reading, with a brief trip to land one day. You might wonder why I don’t talk about going to land more, but it’s simply because here we usually don’t. We can pick across rocky beaches and poke our heads into the dense forests in some places, but with the steep hills and thick greenery it would be difficult to go far; it’s difficult enough getting a hundred feet into the forest from the beach.

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Gwaii Haanas part 3: Bag Harbour, Ḵ’iid Xyangs Ḵ’iidaay, and Taan

By Friday morning (the 18th) the weather had calmed down nearly completely, and we spent several hours motoring out and around Sg̱aay Kun Gwaay.yaay (Burnaby Island) to set anchor for a few days in Bag Harbour (52° 20.838′ N, 131° 21.857′ W), just south of Ḵ’iid Xyangs Ḵ’iidaay (Burnaby Narrows). Technically we probably could have saved several hours if we’d timed it right to go through the Narrows at high tide, but given the narrowness and length of the narrows and the size of our boat, going around was the safer bet.

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North of Vancouver Island: Cape Caution & Pruth Bay

Leaving Port McNeill, we staged up for our crossing from the north end of Vancouver Island, past Cape Caution, to the north coast and the Inside Passage, in a tiny cove labeled as Walker Cove on the Canadian charts.

There’s not much room in Walker Cove, and the entrance is even skinnier than the one we’d gone through to get into Gorge Harbour, but it is protected, peaceful, and right next to Gordon Channel, our path out of Queen Charlotte Strait to go north past Cape Caution. It’s also amazing in its raw beauty, and we were alone there.

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