Gwaii Haanas, part 2: G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay and Hutton Inlet

Around noon on Monday, we took Kestrel the mile across the channel to the eastern “anchorage” for G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hotspring Island), between it and the restricted ground of House Island. While the depths are reasonably shallow, it isn’t very protected, and despite solid holding, we had small rollers coming through the gap between the islands from the northeast the entire time. The time slot we’d been given by the Watchmen was for 2pm, so we made lunch and relaxed before taking our dinghy Shrike to shore and walking the short hike to the Watchmen’s cabin built near the hot springs.

With three hot springs, all three a gradation of different temperatures, you’ve got options. After a (not cold!) shower we were given all the time we wanted, though we did need to keep in mind the tides, because while we’d set Shrike’s anchor high up the beach we’d landed on, we didn’t want to risk anything with the large incoming tide. The hot springs were wonderful, with both of us spending most of our time in the least hot one. I spent a fair bit of time in the one in the middle of the scale, though it was too hot for my partner to want to spend more than a minute in, and the hottest one was too hot for me to even keep my feet in for more than a few seconds. After the past few months of travel, heating and loosening up my muscles was a bit relief. The view was just as good.

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Gwaii Haanas, part 1: T’aanuu Llnagaay & Hlk’yah G̱awG̱a

After an overnight at the Sandspit Marina to stock up on toilet paper from the nearby marine store as well as to top our batteries off without running the engine due to a bunch of overcast days in a row, we headed to a protected anchorage just north of Gwaii Haanas. With a day until our permit to enter the park and nasty weather forecast for that day, we decided to stage up in Thurston Harbour (52°50’29″N 131°44’48″W) and wait out the bad weather. This did mean we were unable to stop to go ashore at the northmost Haida Watchman site, Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans), but we motored past it to see what we could from the water.

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Through the Outside Passage and Across the Hecate Strait

After overnighting at the Shearwater Marina to get our laundry done, we did a bit of final shopping in Bella Bella, as well as dealing with a few items we needed internet connectivity for, we set back off-grid, heading north-west to an overnight anchorage that would give us a good starting point the next morning.

Perrin Anchorage (52°16’38″N 128°22’38″W), between Ivory and Watch Islands, and unnamed on Google Maps, doesn’t look like much from the satellite image, but as you can see from the charts, has reasonable protection in settled weather with a bunch of reefs that dry at low tide. I don’t think it would be comfortable in a southerly blow, but suited our purposes in the weather we had quite nicely.

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North of Vancouver Island: Cape Caution & Pruth Bay

Leaving Port McNeill, we staged up for our crossing from the north end of Vancouver Island, past Cape Caution, to the north coast and the Inside Passage, in a tiny cove labeled as Walker Cove on the Canadian charts.

There’s not much room in Walker Cove, and the entrance is even skinnier than the one we’d gone through to get into Gorge Harbour, but it is protected, peaceful, and right next to Gordon Channel, our path out of Queen Charlotte Strait to go north past Cape Caution. It’s also amazing in its raw beauty, and we were alone there.

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Alert Bay

The first of the First Nations communities we anchored at, Alert Bay, has lots of totem poles both old and new, indigenous art, and a lovely museum, the U’mista Cultural Centre. With a focus on preserving the history and culture of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw, there was a collection of the creation stories, art, textiles, and even a large collection (no photos allowed) of Potlatch dance masks.

While Alert Bay was between the 50s-70s a booming fishing and marine industry town with, apparently, more than enough liquor, gambling, and other vices to go around, these days it’s a quiet community with ferry service to Port McNeill and lots of indigenous art.

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